How to order a meal in Puglia and Southern Italy 2
Having lived in so many different countries, I am lucky enough to have local friends almost everywhere. Whenever I take holidays from my cooking classes in Puglia and I travel, I always make sure I go and visit them. So I am very spoiled, because I get to visit the world with local people who take me to the most authentic places and best restaurants and order for me the most local and delicious food.
Whenever, it happened to me not to have such help I always been a bit disappointed with the food I ordered.
Loving food and wine so much, I can never have enough. Even when I am on holiday I am always interested in trying different foods and wines. I believe cuisine and wine are such a wonderful way to learn about the local culture and traditions.
Because Puglia is still an undiscovered place and because not many people speak English in best local restaurants, I thought it would be good to give some little tips and insights on what to expect in restaurants in Puglia and on how to order a meal in Puglia. So that you don’t run the risk of missing any of the wonderful culinary experience Puglia has to offer.
- First, you need to know about Puglia and Southern Italy is that once you book a table, nobody is going to rush you! You can enjoy your food as slowly as you like. You can stay at the table 2, 3, 4 hours. Nobody will complain. This is because food in Puglia is more a social thing than a way to feed us. We stay at the table for many hours but we eat very slowly. After a 3-hour meal, it may look like we have been eating a lot; but the talking has certainly been much more than the eating. This is a land of slow eating!
- Second, in Puglia we take the idea of “local” food very seriously. This is not a new trendy concept for us. It has been the same way for thousands of years. This means that we only eat what is locally produced. Locally means: within 5 miles. To give you an example: Lecce is 6 miles from the sea. So nobody would order seafood in a restaurant in Lecce. We would only go and eat seafood and fish in Gallipoli or Otranto (which are by the sea and where it would be impossible to find any meat!). In Lecce the cuisine is based on durum wheat pasta, lots of vegetables, cheese and meat, but very little seafood (may be calamari).
- Third, Puglia is not a place of famous chefs or fancy restaurants. Puglia is a place where most of the cooking is done by women in homes. It’s hard to have the authentic cuisine unless you go to someone’s home for a meal. All the local recipes have never been written down and handed down by mother to daughter for generation. You now find lots of traditional restaurants who have become famous and mentioned in all travel guide books. However, you will certainaly find lots of tourists and a few locals in these places. If you cannot get invited to someone’s home for a meal, then ask to the locals, at the market, at the fish shop, in the street. Even if local people don’t speak English everybody will try to help!
- Fourth, Puglia is very famous for the house starters (antipasti della casa). House starters in Puglia may include from 5 to 20 different dishes, mostly made with vegetables, cheese, focaccia. They are all small servings to be shared (so 1 house starter can be for 4 people) but they can be a lot! If you want only ONE small starter, may be prosciutto crudo and melon, then make sure you ask for it. Otherwise the waiter will arrive with the many different house starters. After the house starters, we would only have either one pasta course or one seafood/meat course. We would always end a meal with fruit or dessert.
- Fifth, salad in Puglia is a side course to our main course (meat or seafood). A waiter would be very suprised if you order a salad as a starter or with your pasta course. Alternative side courses would be other vegetables (but different from the house starters) or potatoes.
- Sixth, every meal ends with a coffee, after which we also have the famous “amaro“, which is a digestive liquor (same concept of the limoncello or grappa). You can order it plain, or with ice cubes…..or the best way would be to have it on top of the spumone ice cream, which is the local ice cream in Puglia.
- Seventh, servings are small in Puglia. House starters would be very small because they are supposed to be shared. Also pasta courses or main courses can be smaller than what you find in restaurants abroad.
- Eight, traditional pasta in Puglia is made with durum wheat or barley or emmer. The local pasta is not made with eggs (even tagliatelle are not made with eggs). All local pasta include: cavatelli, orecchiette, sagne incannulate. However, we also eat egg pasta, such as ravioli, tortellini, lasagne, gnocchi.
- Ninth, Puglia is not a region of big steaks. If you like steaks you have to go to Tuscany or the North of Italy. In Puglia we do eat meat but it would be lamb, veal and a bit of beef. Meat is always accompanied by vegetables (for examples: eggplants stuffed with ground meat). Therefore meat is more a complement to vegetables than a main dish. Local people in general eat very little meat and more seafood and legumes.
- Tenth, we come to paying the bill! In Puglia (and in Italy) service is included in your bill. So there is no obligation to tip. However if you are happy with your food, then it would be very nice to leave a little tip: from 3 euro to 10 euro, depending on how happy you are.
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